Started the "Transmission Job"

[TSEJEEPERS]

yes that is a original pump.
Did you order one from the Dealership? Every aftermarket one I have installed did not fit right but they have never come loose.
What about the distributer, are you running the stock one?
I had a few issues with aftermarket ones.

[W_A_Watson_II]

I picked up a Bosch unit from Advance Autoparts, will install it and see if it fits better. Just didn't like the loose fit of the cheap ones and did not want to hear them make noise as they pump.

I have a new distributor, thought I'd try the one (was supposedly a re-build, but based on it's look I think it's new) as Bill suggested, but it's already sent back as a core for the one I bought.

If the pump doesn't fix it, I'll be re-checking for air leaks, and then order another distributor.

Will

[Fraser]

Pull the disributor cap and see if the shaft has any play, just a little bit will cause a surprising amount of variation in spark timing.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Checked, no side to side play, just a little vertical and rotational.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Before I go on my rant about Aftermarket Parts Engineers and Bean Counters (My degree is in Engineering so I can rant), I think I might have to concede and say I'm running Lean. Fist I want to know who the (Expletive removed) Engineer was/is and the (Expletive removed) Bean counter who probably forced the Engineers had to make a (Expletive removed) generic fuel pump and sell it as an exact fit that in no way fits the vehicle! Even the Bosch replacement unit (The 3rd one I tried to make fit) fit's kind of crappy! It's in and at least it's snug and fits good enough that it isn't loose in the sending/pump bracket. Not the easiest to install, but it's in and working, quietly.

I also changed the fuel filter, but first a warning. If you own a Bone Creeper, and are in a low humidity area, or like me keep the shop humidity low, be very carful of electrostatic electricity. Every time I get on the creeper, and go under a vehicle, as soon as I touch the vehicle, ZAP! I got hit so hard the other day, my finger still hurts. I had to be sure to not let a spark fly while changing the filter, as fuel always runs out of the line and starts evaporating.



I re-installed the Champion Plugs, and a new one to replace the defect in #3.

Well, after this, it was still raining and wet out, so I backed the Jeep up to the door and opened it enough to vent the exhaust and shop. I started the Jeep and let it idle for a long time, and a few off misses, but all was well. A/F Ration was 14.6-15. After everything was good, I revved it up and held it at 2K, 3.5K and back to 2K RPM a couple of time.

On the third time, I got the miss I'd had before. So I held the throttle between 3 & 3,500 and started checking for air leaks or any other issues. None found. Then I saw something, and got worried, the exhaust header was glowing red, and bright. I let off the rpm, let her cool down and shut her off. Oil is still right on the mark, and as clean as brand new oil, no issues seen anywhere. I know with no air flow over the engine, they can sometime glow, but I suspect I must indeed be running lean. The A/F Ration gauge was showing 14.7-15 at these RPM's.



So I will order the Adjustable Fuel Pressure Regulator. Do you guys recommend the HESSO or the Leigh Performance unit?

I'll also order/build the MAP Sensor Adjustable Voltage Adjuster.

Now what should I set these at to start off with?

Thanks,
Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

I've done some research and learned that the distributor pick up coil (or what ever you want to call it) doesn't affect spark timing, it's used for injector timing. Wrangler Forum- How/Where to adjust the timing? So I Indexed the Distributor. As you will see in the pictures, the distributor would have been sending the injection pulse just a little late. I opened up the slot on the "ears" and re-installed the distributor properly indexed.



Took the Jeep out for a leisurely drive, no high RPM's or hard accelerations. It did miss some after I started it and drove it out of the shop, but shrugged that off to the computer learning the slightly new curve. And again, after everything got well warmed and up to operating temperature it started missing again. When it did this I pulled off the road to a safe place, and opened the hood. At idle all was fine, revved it up and the miss started. Held it there for a little bit, and could see the header starting to glow red. So I headed back home. After this mornings test with the re-indexed distributor, it looks and seems to me that the fuel was still getting into the exhaust manifold and burning there. This to me it was still a spark/timing issue. So since I'd been through everything else except the computer and CPS that is as you see above where I went. SilverXJ over at Jeep Strokers yesterday sugested: "after having ruled everything else out that I should check the CPS as a weak signal as the engine revs higher and the sensor gets hotter could be the problem." Thinking through it, if it's spark timing related, perhaps the new CPS sensor was bad. Could it be getting hot and causing the problem? So I grabbed the old one and pulled the new one out. You can see that it looks like the flywheel has rubbed across the face of the new CPS, and a small sliver torn loose. The new one has no slot for adjustment, just a hole, unlike the old one that has a slot.



I just completed a 26 mile trip in the Jeep, and for the first 3/4's of it I just cruised, no hard accelerations or high RPM's. No misses like I had this morning, so I did the 3,500 RPM at 55 MPH for a while and then shifted to 3rd, and unlike before, still no misses. Next I did a couple of hard accelerations, and even at 5,000 RPM and an 80 MPH (it still didn't shift to 3rd until I let up a little), still mo misses. I'll have to adjust the cable a little more to see if it correct the shift issue, if not I'll let the transmission guy address it. So after the 26 miles and no miss, it looks like, and Lord please let it be, the CPS was indeed was the problem. The A/F Ratio seems to average out about 14.4/14.5 at cruse and idle. On hard accelerations, it doesn't go as rich as before, and seems to hit 11.0 at 5,000 RPM. Guess I'll stay on my old factory CPS until it fails. Guess that's what I get for replacing parts that were still good. The 1" body lift sure made it easy to change it though.

I want to thank everyone here who has helped, not just Silver XJ. This is a great community and I've sure learned a lot and I'm sure there is more to learn.

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Took the Jeep for a couple more test drives today. So for all is well, the miss has not returned, YEA! It still amazes me how much pep the Jeep has with the 3.07 gears and 31" tires. Now to not break an axle (too soon). The shifting seems to be better after a couple of kick down cable adjustments. It's now shifting just above 4,500 RPM when the pedal is to the metal. the Jeep is as with all projects not done, but I can now safely and enjoyably drive it again.



Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Started building the Rock Sliders today. Decided to use a piece of the 2" x 4" x 0.120" steel tubing I had left over from the Power Wagon Stake Bed project, and split it rather than having a piece of steel bent. Since these are not my permanent Rock Sliders. Once I swap in some 1 ton axles and build by own Tube Fenders and Rear Fender Flair, I'll need to build new matching Rock Sliders. Now to get some tubing and finish them off.



Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Finished the fabrication of the tubes for the Rock Rails. I've got a total of probably 12 hours of design and fab into them. Now to finish some cleaning and the paint them. The extend out from the body by 3.25"



Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Got around to finishing cleaning up and painting the Rock Sliders and got them installed as well. I also checked my fuel pressure, Engine running it's at 32.5psi, under under acceleration it goes up to 40 psi.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, after 2 weeks and 1 day I have my YJ back. The transmission started having a shift problem, starting off in 1st, when in Drive, as well as the shift lever no longer having a positive detent feel. Took the Jeep the the shop that rebuilt the transmission for me, and said the problems were covered under the warranty, but as I had done the removal and re-install before I'd have to pay for that. Turns out I was glad I let them do it, as they had to pull and re-install the transmission three times! Initially they found that the 2nd gear shift bad had one of the end brackets rivets give, and let the other end's part fall free. Once that was fixed, the transmission was re-installed, only to have a leak in the front. So out it came for the 2nd time, and no bad seals, but a lot of assembly lube was present, so every thing was checked and re-assembles and installed. The leak was still present, further investigation showed that the back side of the flywheel was covered in fluid. Indicating a crack/leak in the torque converter. So out the transmission came for a third time, and a new torque converter was installed, as well as to be sure all was good in the pump, it was pulled and rebuilt again. Now all seems good, picked it up today and except for a 2-3 shift flare that they believe will work out with use, it's back to running great. The shifter was once again finding and I could feel the shift position indents'. RJ at the trans shop said that he found the shift lever pivot arm had more play that it should and said I should replace the bushing. I'd not noticed the play in the pivot when I rebuilt it Jeep, but pulled the linkage out and found the pivot point wore thru some, so out came it's pivot bracket, and found an oblonged hole. So I welded and filed the shaft, then decided with the 1" body lift I'd drill a new hole about 1" higher than the old one to better level the pivot point. Well, the shift arm then interfered wit the bracket. So I welded up the old and new holes in the bracket and drilled a new one only ~1/2" higher, and clearance the bracket a little to ensure no interference. It's all back in, and except for the slop in the government motors column, the shifter feels so much better than it ever has.

[wdln]

That column-shift linkage is junk. That was one of the first things that broke on my Jeep. The first of many, many, MANY things.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Yea, considered switching to a floor shifter.

[todd watkins]

Lookin really good Will.

[W_A_Watson_II]

I've also started fabricating my rear tub mounted spare tire carrier. It will be removable at the hinge pins, so I don't have to have it installed when wheeling, but can at least carry a spare when I'm doing a road trip.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Completed some more work on the spare tire carrier. Need to weld in three close out plates and fabricate a latch/hold up on the drivers side. I ended up adding a third bolt to each hinge to further strengthen the arm and help prevent hinge twist.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Finished the fabrication of the Spare Tire Carrier. Fabricating the latch end was the last items. Now to blast, prime and paint.