Started the "Transmission Job"

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well yesterday the Jeep Transmission gave up the battle, not gradually, but all at once. I knew it was not in good shape but didn't expect it to go all at once. I think it's actually the Torque Converter that bit the dust. I didn't make it home, but did cost the Jeep into my buddies Body Shop Parking Lot. I went back with the Trailer and brought the Jeep home to start the "Transmission Job". I will not only rebuild the tranny, but the motor and do the needed body repairs. I've looked at how I want to "tube" my front fenders. I plan on using 1" square tube rather than the normal round. It should go well with the YJ's square design. Made good progress and spent 7 hours on disassembly.

http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

[W_A_Watson_II]

Between yesterday and the few hours I got in today, I sure hate Torx Screws even more than I did when I did the Tub Swap on the CJ. Now I've for to go buy some new T27's and T45's. I've got the grill shell off, the Dash out, the back stripped (except one stubborn hinge) and everything disconnected from the tub, except the fuel take wires. I don't know who the contortionist was that designed the YJ's dash, but I sure do lie the CJ's dash even more. Just don't want to give up my defrosters to make the switch. I sure (know) I took some things off of the dash that I didn't need to get it out, but at least it's out and hopefully I will have a much easer job in getting it back in. The only things left before i remove the tub is the 10 body bolts, the fuel pump/gauge wires, and i believe an exhaust hanger. I'll do a little rear tub corner mount fixes before I pull the tub though.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Started out today with a little examination of the rear tub mounts and the body repair needed. It looks like I will have to do the repair off the frame as the left rear tub mount has rusted so bad it's settled. Next I decided to do the start of the Fuel Pump Access Panel cut out. Based on others designs and some investigation I decided to cut mine out 7" wide and 7.5" long.


The forward cut was at the "normal" 14" from the gate seal surface. However if I was to do it again, I'd cut it at 13-7/8" so as to miss cutting the forward tub hat section.


I'll place some metal under the tub and rework the rear tub hat section so I can screw the panel back in place, providing future access to the fuel pump should it be needed.


Next came the final disconnecting the tub bolts and a few last connections so I could remove the tub. I lifted the tub off using the engine hoist, just as I've done before with the CJ Tub Swap and Power Wagon.



With the Tub off, next I tackled removing the drive shafts and transfer case. then came the removal of the wiring harness, man what a mess of routing around the engine compartment. After that I removed the radiator in preparation for starting the engine disassembly.


Will

[TSEJEEPERS]

Wow, Will you do not mess around!

[W_A_Watson_II]

Thanks Tom, just don't look forward to the body work, or re-installing the dash.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, started the afternoon off by cleaning up the remaining transmission fluid that came out of the cooling lines. What a mess burnt tranny oil makes.


Next came the engine disassembly. First the manifolds, and I'm glad I'm taking them off with the fenders out of the way. Next came the head. Cylinder walls look good, but a some carbon build up on the pistons and heads/valves.




Up to about 20 hours into the job now.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, I pulled the Transmission and then the Torque Converter. If you move the TC around you can hear a rattle, and take a look inside the transmission hole, I see loose parts. So I'm sure the TC is shoot.


I then pulled the Engine and finished disassembling it. WOW, were the Connecting Rod bearings shoot, and the crank was grooved. The cam looked like it was toasted and it's bearings were shoot as well. Good thing I didn't just fix the known problem, the head.




I've loaded the block, head and intake to take to the machine shop for cleaning and inspection. I've also loaded up the Transmission and Torque Converter to take them to the shop as well.


I'm now up to 24 hours of work into the job.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Progress is back on. Still waiting on the Block, Head and Transmission shops. I've now been able to wash the frame (water band lifted) and made some necessary frame repairs. Having done a 1" body lift, I've also did a rear fuel tank 1" tuck to gain better departure angles. The Head is complete with the new Hesco springs and everything, the transmission should be done tomorrow, and with the snafu on cam bearing order behind me the Block should be ready in the next day or two. Next is to install the necessary brake lines and then apply some paint in preparation for the engine and tranny when they are done.

[Duke Winch]

So this is what I have to look forward to when I rebuild the blue TJ? Can I bring it to your house and you'll do it for me?

I'm impressed with all you have accomplished in a short time. It will all be worth it when your done.

Duke

[W_A_Watson_II]

Duke, yep, that's what happens when a guy like us goes to fix a busted torque converter, the Jeep ends up in a million pieces and paint ends up on everything.

Why, work on a TJ, sure, I'll have a good idea of how many hours to do the job, just need to determine my rate.

Between waiting on parts (still waiting on Machine Shop and parts ordered there) and un-scheduled trips and a funeral, I've gotten very little done in the past two weeks. I look forward to the complete Jeep and some fun driving, and then the search for a set of 1 ton axles once I break all 6 rear axle shafts I have on hand.

Will

[vlucdog]

Looks good Will, great progress.

Bill

[Duke Winch]

, and then the search for a set of 1 ton axles once I break all 6 rear axle shafts I have on hand.

Will

For the back, I would stay away from a D60 out of a J20 pickup as they have unique outer hubs that make axles hard to find and the bearing sets expensive. Go with a ford of chevy.

Duke

[W_A_Watson_II]

Thanks Bill and Thanks for the info Duke.

[W_A_Watson_II]

More parts have arrived AND Donnelly Machine, called and the rod are in the pistons, so I went and picked up everything, and paid the bill. Everything looks good, no machining to the rods small end to fit the pistons, so that was good. Now to start the engine re-assembly!






In addition to picking up the Engine Block, Head and Pistons from the machine shop I got the frame painted with the Chassis Black (still a little wet in these pictures). I'll still need to pull the wheels and paint the outer portions of the axles, but I can start re-assembling the drive train, that is as soon as it's all together. Now to start the Engine Assembly.





Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, today I was going through the parts inventory and browsing the manual making sure I was ready to start the re-build. While checking parts, I discovered I had the wrong pistons. I ended up with my first recipe attempt pistons that required the 4.2L rods and piston dish machining rather than the final selection that used the 4.0L rods and had a larger factory dish. So I'll return these pistons and rings and have the rods removed and installed on the correct pistons that the shop already has on order. Donnelly has been great and I don't fault them they are helping a lot. I also received the new Venom fuel injectors and the Air/fuel Ratio Gauge as well as the push rod length gauge needed to select and then order new push rods.

[Duke Winch]

I hope your keeping a detailed parts list as I have two engines that need to be rebuilt and would prefer not starting from scratch.

Duke

[W_A_Watson_II]

Yep, of the correct and In-Correct Parts. Discovered today that they gave me the wrong main bearings, so I took took them and the freshly arrived (EXPENSIVE FORGED) Pistons into the shop. Should have the pistons back by Friday, hope the correct bearings are in by then as well. This stroker is getting expensive.

[W_A_Watson_II]

The New pistons arrived Wednesday, and today (Friday) I picked them up from the machine shop after they removed the wrong pistons, and machined the small ends of my rods to provide clearance to the bottom of the piston face (due to the short pin height pistons). I also picked up the correct main bearings and a few more items like a new Alternator while I was out. Seems my old one, in addition to being salt corroded, had a cracked housing, figured change it now rather than later. Now to start the Engine Assembly, that is now that I hopefully have everything I need.




http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, after a few phone calls and e-mails, I've discovered that the ICON IC944 Pistons (P/N IC944.030) I'm using are indeed Forged from 4032 Alloy rather than what ICON's WEB and Summit WEB sites states as 2618. So after some good guidance form the guys over at JeepStrokers.com, and confirmation from ICON, my recommended clearance range specification is .0025” to .003”. With my bore being 3.9050" to 3.9055" and the Pistons being 3.9023" to 3.9028", I will have to ensure I properly fit the pistons to the cylinders to keep a proper clearance.
With all that now behind me I spent the afternoon starting the engine assembly. I checked the ring gap, and have .016 on the top and .018 on the second rings. Both above the calculated .0156 per ICON's minimum clearance. With the correct crank bearings also now in hand, the first item to install was the crank. I used the Comp Cams Assembly lube during the installation. Next I installed the oil pump, the Melling High Volume unit I had installed last year when I got the Jeep. Next came the pistons. Even with the correct tools, the piston aren't the easiest to install, the ring compressor had to be just right to allow the piston to be tapped into the cylinder. Next was the new Comp Camp. Then came the oil pan. Next was the lifters and placement of the head gasket. Finally I installed the new timing chain and gears.









Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Today started out good, Assembling the Timing Cover, Water Pump, Harmonic Balancer, Engine Brackets and Alternator. However when it came time to install the thermostat and housing, well I was on a parts search. Don't know why, but for some reason I put it with the body parts, not the drive train parts, and it took a while searching and re-searching everywhere before I found it. then I couldn't find the bolts for it. Not sure why it was being so difficult, but bolts found, and it's now installed. Next I started the process of using the special measuring push rod to determine what push rods I need to order. Will take it and one of my old rods to the Machine Shop and get a proper measurement and get a set ordered. Next I started the assembly of the Intake. Not too difficult, but I used the wrong bolts for the injector rail and snapped one off while torquing it down. So off to the parts store to get a new set of bolts for the throttle Body. I finished the days work off by cleaning the A/C-Air Compressor housing for it's build.








http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_EngineBuild.htm

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, after getting the engine push rods ordered, and taking care of some other items I got started this afternoon on installing the engine, transmission, fuel tank and finish the rear brake lines. However I could not get the torque converter to install into the transmission. It would not engage the larger splined shaft. The owner of the transmission shop is stopping by hopefully tomorrow to install the torque converter. If he gets it installed great, but I suspect he won't. I suspect its the wrong torque converter, as the one I got has 26 splines, and is for the 30RH with Lock-up, and mine has 27 splines (as best as I can count) and is a not a lock-up transmission. I didn't get the brake lines done, as I damaged the new hose, so I've ordered a new one.






http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[wdln]

It must be SO much easier to install a transmission from above!

[W_A_Watson_II]

It must be SO much easier to install a transmission from above!

Yep, but you sure need the right torque converter to do it. I'll have the correct one here on Monday. I've installed the manual trans in the PW and M from below, but this sure is the way to do it.

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

In addition to getting the correct Torque Converter this morning, I also got the new Push Rods. So they were installed, and I pumped oil around through the engine after installing them. I then added the comp cams break-in additive and the rest of the oil and pumped some more oil around before installing the exhaust and intake. Unfortunately one of the apparently already cracked exhaust studs broke on me, so I'll have to get a new one. Need to finish the transmission line installation, radiator and wiring, then perhaps I can start the engine and do the break-in running before letting it set while I do the body repairs.








http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[Matt Brown]

Will, i see that you have the larger injectors, are you going to do anything with the throttle body? I know a person that mills out the stock ones and puts in the 62mm butterfly.