Started the "Transmission Job"

[W_A_Watson_II]

Yep, I've installed a TB that was bored out by Leigh Performance Machine to 63mm.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Not as much progress as I should have this afternoon. I did pickup the replacement exhaust manifold stud, and installed it. I also finished the brake line work. Ended up making both rear axle brake lines rather than just the one that was partially damaged. I also replaced the two brake lines between the Master Cylinder and the Proportioning Valve. Connected the front hoses next, then proceeded to bleed the system. I have the worst luck bleeding brakes, and this time is no exception. The power brake bleeder, as usual isn't as good as they claim. It leaks, at least this time it didn't leak so bad I couldn't get the brakes bleed. The only bleeding valve I can't get to open is the one on the drivers front side, may have to replace the caliper before it's over, bit will wait till I can drive the Jeep and see how the brakes are working. Next I proceeded to assemble the A/C compressor into the On-Board Air Compressor. I'm using a 450ºF Synthetic great by John Deere inside to keep it lubricated. It's a little work to not only install the pistons back in properly, but to get enough grease in and all the remaining parts installed. But it's all together and ready for the coil and pulley next.








http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[TSEJEEPERS]

Looks great Will!
Why you have the tub off you may want to check those fuel lines that go though the rear crossmember.
(first picture)
Mine smashed over time and gave me a high fuel pressure.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Thanks Tom, Fuel lines were removed cleaned and re-installed all in good shape. I did end up replacing every brake line except the one that runs with the fuel lies though.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, after a couple days of yard work, I got a little more done on the Jeep. I've installed the rest of the front of the engine and the radiator. I also started fitting the exhaust and welded in the Air/Fuel Ration O2 Sensor bung as well. The grill is installed just to keep the radiator out of the fan while I break-in the cam when I start the engine up soon. I've also got the engine wiring harness mostly installed as well. I've prepped and Installed the transfer case, that is all except the lower mounting nut. I'll have to unbolt the drive train and jack it up off the skid plate to access it enough to tighten it down.

The transfer case is one I picked up from Duke that had a SYE kit already installed. The read drive shaft needs a little cleaning and a new U-Joint, but should work fine. With the Jeep setting as is, I have 3" of the slip joint engaged.
OK, who knows if there is any special alignment of the U-Joint to CV-Joint? I ask as this one seems to be clocked different than I expected, but has yellow paint alignments and has been balanced in this alignment.

I also mocked up a little more of the exhaust. I will have to finish the tail pipe after the body is installed, and it looks to need a little adjustment and the end will have to be modified to keep it from getting destroyed while hanging out the rear.






Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Spent some time this afternoon, welding the exhaust extension, tightening up the remaining transfercase bolt, filled the transfercase and radiator. I then proceeded to pull the necessary internal wiring harness, gauge clusters, and steering wheel and hooked them up on the chassis. It took a little to discover I missed connecting the smaller firewall connector, but once it was connected I had full power and could crank the engine over. I primed the fuel system, and will do one more check over and a few other odds and ends before I roll it out and try to start it tomorrow afternoon.




Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

First, a big THNAKS to Bill Gangloff (lucdog). Bill drove down from Peoria to see me start the engine up. He spent more time on the road than he did here, but am I glad he came. Turns out I apparently did get the distributor 180º out of time. Either when I did the initial install, or when I primed the lifters, or when I pre-lubed the engine. Doesn’t matter what, I did it.

After it didn’t initially start, we checked for fuel and spark and had both. We re-checked all the connections, and tried a few more times before checking the timing. With the use of an engine pressure tester, we determined it was out 180º. So I proceeded to correct it. Still didn’t start, so after some more checking, we discovered I was one tooth off on the distributer timing. Once more I pulled and re-installed the distributor, and we tried again. She started up and ran great.

Now we cranked up the RPM to the required 2,000 RPM, and started looking and checking everything over. Had a momentarily over 210º water temperature that caused us to lower the RPM, but it corrected itself and was likely an air bubble, as it didn’t happen again.

About half way through the cam break in, the engine developed a miss. The Air Fuel Ration started jumping with each miss. I suspect it might be due to the old stock spark plugs, and will install a new set of lower temperature plugs when I change out the break in oil and see if it returns. If it does I’ll have to start checking the new injectors and plug sires for problems. Almost everything is new, including the distributor, cap, wires, injectors, sensors, etc… So with the new Plugs it must be a faulty part, something I did incorrectly.

While it was running did add additional transmission fluid, and will likely need a little more when I get a chance to run it through the gears. It now has 9.5 quarts, and I believe with the deep pan should hold 10+ quarts.

It’s great to have it running with all the work and parts, and after the oil and plug change and one little exhaust change, I should be ready to start working on the tub.






https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=x1oOw2C ... ature=plcp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9JlxJS7 ... ature=plcp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chEJR8H ... ature=plcp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=OHpdULb ... ature=plcp

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well after yesterdays engine start and cam break-in, it was time to change the oil and install the new Spark Plugs. I elected to do the break-in with the old plugs figuring there might me some oil or other burn off that I didn't want to harm the new plugs. Not sure it was a wise idea, but I did it. As you can see in the first picture, Cylinders 3 & 4 (and partially #6) either weren't cleaned enough, or have problems and likely caused the miss the engine developed during the break-in. In the second picture you can see the cooler heat range NGK BKR6E-11 (RC9YC4) Spark plug next to one of the old Champion 4412's. (RC12LYC). While I had the plugs out I also did a room temp wet engine compression test. The results are as follows:
1 - 183psi
2 - 182 psi
3 - 186 psi
4 - 183 psi
5 - 185 psi
6 - 183 psi
All in all only a 4 psi delta, and what I believe to be good numbers for a 9'ish Compression Ration Engine. I also checked (once I knew you could and how) checked for any Engine codes, and only found batter disconnect code which was expected. I changed the engine oil and filter and added the ZDD Plus Oil Additive. I rechecked the manifold torques, and noticed two of the exhaust pipes had a sign of what looked like oil run oil of the pipe to flange area. It's probably from the small oil leak that developed on the valve cover while running during the break-in. While the engine was running (break-in) I re-torqued the valve cover and believe I have the oil leak stopped. I also removed and extended the exhaust pipe to get the muffler to clear the skid plate, and further investigated the stock tail pipe position. I'll probably take it back, and end up having one made that fits better and is 2.5", not 2.25" in diameter. Now with the gas tank straps that arrived this afternoon, I can paint and install them and have the chassis done with the exception of drive shafts.








http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Took advantage of probably one of the last nice days to wash off the weekends mud off the M37, and roll out the YJ to start and run the engine again. The intent was to let the engine run a good 30 minutes and see if the miss returned, and after almost 50 minutes, it did not. The engine still runs and sounds strong, but when you rev it the Air/fuel ration jumps around it it blows out some smoke. It still smells rich, but the A/F ration says different. Fluid levels are all holding steady and looking clean.




https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=zDGwjSu ... ature=plcp
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=gJUbTXC ... ature=plcp

http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Started the Body work today, and started off with the driver side floor, as it was the biggest hole in the body. I picked up a cheap patch panel and cut out the the rusted floor material and the rust at the body side as well. I've cut the patch panel down to fit and cleaned the floor. Not to start welding in the patches.





Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Spent some time this afternoon, cleaning out the tub, and applying some weld thru primer to the drivers floor. Next I started pulling off the tub interior items, rails, seat mounts, wiring, heating system, etc... As you can also see I have it on a set of wheels for easy movement and better side access.




Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Welded in the floor and door support patches. Now to patch the outer body panel, and then move to the rear of the tub for those patches.





Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Just a little work. I fabricated and welded in the outer panel patch for the drivers side door support area. Welding on this thin sheet metal just isn't my thing. I also removed the cracked/broken and cleaned up the cowl areas.





Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

No, I've not fallen off the face of the earth, I've been busy with Deer Season, Thanks Giving, Family and a few other things going on and have not had much time to work on the Jeep lately. I did get in a little work on the tub though. Finished the passenger side lower door support repair, and worked on the fuel pump access panel some more. Looks like my original plan of driving by Christmas is out the window, oh well, all is good though.



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

[TSEJEEPERS]

I was starting to wonder where you were!
Hey where did you pick that John Deere grease that you used on the compressor?
Is it a dealer only item?

[W_A_Watson_II]

Yea, I've been busy so work has stopped, for now. the Grease was indeed bought at the dealer. I picked it up while I was in MO at the dealer my brother uses, but it should be available at all of the JD Dealers.

[W_A_Watson_II]

Back to doing a little work on the Jeep. I made a reinforcement to install inside the rear tub body cross member to mount the CJ tail gate to. I was able to slide it in and through the rust hole on the passengers side before doing it's repair. I also reinforced/repaired the right rear tub mount and started closing off the rust hole.



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Started the exterior rear corner repair. Finally used my body panel clamps to hold the patch panels in place while I spot welded them in. They work pretty good, but my thin sheet metal welding skills aren't the best. I will need to finish welding them from the back/bottom side, but before I flip the tub, I spot welded in the final fuel pump cover side flanges. After a little more welding and some body filler the tub exterior is getting closer to sanding and painting.



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

I finished attaching and welding the Fuel Pump Access Cover. Also welded the bottom side of the rear tub mount reinforcements I made.



Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Finished the bottom side welding, and patching a few more places that I found. Next to remove some broken dash bolts, lower door hinges, and the brake pedal assemble to start prepping for paint, etc...



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Well, let me tell you, cleaning out the old carpet glue was no easy task. The glue is almost all gone now, and I've de-greased the inside of the tub and the engine side of the firewall as well. I've done the same trim/opening of the rear wheel wheels that I did to my brothers Jeep. This will allow easily up to 35" tires with out further trimming, so my current 31" might look a little out of place. I also fabricated the tailgate latch brackets from some 1/2" tubing and adding a weld to snap the latches against. The only metal work left on the tub is to fabricate/attach the tailgate straps. then I can prime, and fill the body spots in preparation for paint.



http://www.jeepforum.com/forum/f12/star ... st14094522
http://jeep.wawii.com/93YJ_TrannyJob.htm

Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

This afternoon a little more cleaning, and then some bare metal priming. I also removed the glass out of the replacement windshield frame and getting it ready.



Will

[DrDirt]

Will, I wish you would quit dragging your feet on this project. I need for you to get it done so you can start doing the body work on a couple of my projects!!!!
P.S. - are you taking time off for Christmas?

[W_A_Watson_II]

John,

I was dragging my feet as much as I could, but times a wasting. I'll work through Christmas, trying to get painted before New Years, if at all possible. I started the Filling and Sanding today, and should have it done tomorrow. Then to fab a couple of tailgate strap attachment plates (still need some dimensions though) and weld in the tub side plates.



Will

[W_A_Watson_II]

Something else, not the original blue, or the current black, but something that will go well with the M.